Sometimes driving now, I turn my radio off, and it feels like I am still in the San Juan mountains.
One of my favorite feelings during hundred mile races is to get to the 70-80-90 mile mark and realize that “Geez, I’ve been going for X hours, here it is MILE 90 and I AM STILL RUNNING!” There isn’t anything like that feeling. Even though it (without doubt) hurts and aches, and all manner of things may have happened in the race so far, I can still run. That is wonderful. It even makes me look forward to the aches and pains that precede that capable feeling.
Little Molas Lake environs |
One of my favorite feelings during hundred mile races is to get to the 70-80-90 mile mark and realize that “Geez, I’ve been going for X hours, here it is MILE 90 and I AM STILL RUNNING!” There isn’t anything like that feeling. Even though it (without doubt) hurts and aches, and all manner of things may have happened in the race so far, I can still run. That is wonderful. It even makes me look forward to the aches and pains that precede that capable feeling.
The Hardrock Hundred is a race beyond comparison, without
equal, and whatever other superlatives you can think of - that’s HRH. Since I
first saw pictures of the course in 2008, I knew I had to get there. Nothing
could dissuade me – not the stories of puking, getting lost, 47 hour finishes,
lightning, endless climbing – all those risks were peanuts beside the awesome mountain vistas and
trails. It took five years of qualifying races and lottery entries, pacing,
crewing and volunteering at Hardrock to get my place at the starting line. I
was so excited the last week before the race that I would forget to eat.
Some look at their goal races as a test, a final exam, even
– but I’ve always considered races to be the party at the end of all the
training and planning. And there was
lots of planning for Hardrock. I lined up five pacers + a crew chief, had a
prerace meeting, plotted maps, estimated times, made hotel reservations, took
vacation for 2 weeks to go up early and acclimate.
Race morning came – party time – but first there
was a test: I couldn’t find my sunglasses. Panicking and practically in tears,
I was failing at keeping my cool 30 minutes before the start. Not for the last
time, Ken (husband and crew chief) came to the rescue and lent me his. At
check-in, friends and crew wished me luck while I couldn’t believe I was going
to get to be on the Hardrock course. Too much excitement, exhilaration, elation
made me leak more than a bit from my eyes. Let us on the course already!
HRH ram logo on my toes! |
And then we were.
A mile through town in the misty cloudy morning, then onto
the trails. With an easy pace, in the cool crisp air, the course opened up to
me. We were to climb over 33,000 feet: one 14’er, 7 passes around 13,000 feet and ~4 more
above 12,000 feet in our 100 mile circuit of the San Juans, so the course
wasted no time in getting us up the first one – Dives-Little Giant. To every
side, around every corner, in front of and behind me the vistas waited to be
admired. After ascending for a few miles, Silverton was cloaked, hidden under
clouds and mist lit snow-white by the sun with a backdrop of ochre shaded
mountains. A line of runners wound up the trail through a snow patch on the
mountain’s shoulder becoming smaller and smaller until they seemed to cross
into the sunlight.
Remembering that I wasn’t simply out for a long run, I
repeated my first goal out loud: Get to Grouse in good shape. I ate, drank, and
kept my pace easy, but I couldn’t keep my smile in check. I guessed if I
sprained a cheek muscle before Grouse, I’d still be ok.
In training, the climb out of Cunningham Gulch seemed steep
and nasty, guaranteed to have me gasping and heaving for air on every step.
Today though, I planted my poles and hiked up with purpose, easily and
steadily. I reached the top of the second climb (Green Mountain) behind a
friend and Hardrock veteran Tyler, who is known for being a “closer” – someone
who speeds up on the last 40 miles of this course. I hung with Tyler a little,
talking about the course to come until he paused to get something out of his
pack. We dipped down into a basin with clouds building to our south before
traversing and climbing up Buffalo Boy ridge just as slantwise sleet and rain
borne by cold biting wind pelted us. No lightning, though, so I dug out my rain
jacket and gloves and kept moving. At the top of the descent, a poor volunteer
decked head to toe in waterproof gear and layers stood near a “snow wall” with
a notch in it – apparently the way down. At the notch, she said, “don’t use
your poles, other runners have broken theirs.” A ten foot vertical drop on the
other side ended in a snow drift! I sat in the notch, and dropped down, whooped
and stumbled a bit, then kept moving, relishing being out of the wind for the
moment.
Down to Maggie Gulch Aid station (mile 15.4, 5 hours in) and
the other half of my crew is volunteering here. I’m so excited to see them it’s
hard not to skip coming into the aid station.
I have little to relate except
how great life is, but I hear that Josh saved a runner choking on watermelon by
giving him the Heimlich! Now that’s an aid station volunteer giving excellent
service!
Climbing out of Maggie, I still couldn’t believe how lucky I
was to be out on the Hardrock course. My ankle ligament, partially torn 6 weeks
ago was uncomplaining, and everything else felt great too. After crossing the
Continental Divide trail in a field of yellow flowers, the trail turns to a
sweeping downhill. Wildflowers in blue
and yellow, pink and white bobbed their heads at my passing and splashing. For
most of this section, the trail couldn’t be distinguished from a muddy stream
running through a wide open high altitude meadow. I tried for awhile to pick
the best footing, running on the edges, but eventually I tired of the
tip-toeing. Since my shoes were already wet, it wasn’t a point of saving them
from the mud and water. Pole Creek Aid Station (mile 19.7) – remote, remarkably well provisioned but also cool, friendly, and relaxed – served me a
cup of broth and some fruit before I followed another runner I’d been
leapfrogging (Mike) out of the aid station. More mud, then more and more, until
we reached a river. (Which of course we crossed. And then crossed again.) The
trail wound through more willows, still wet everywhere.
One step changed my race. A running footplant into ankle
deep mud, and I yanked my foot out. I felt immediate pain in my injured ankle
ligament. Crap. I scaled back the running and thought about my first goal - how
to get to Grouse in good shape, not too likely anymore. I’d have
to go slower, and minimize heel striking with my right foot which aggravated
the ligament. I was really hoping that any ligament pain would wait until the
last half, but at least I had a plan.
With an achy ligament, I ran past gorgeous Cataract Lake in
the rain, and began the long forested descent before Sherman. The river tumbled
noisily down next to me, the switchbacks bringing us close then turning us away
over and over again. Trying to protect my right ankle, I was landing
and breaking with my left leg. Rocky at first, with some big steps, the trail
eventually turned to rooty steps. Down and down, I could feel my left leg
getting tired. I backed off the pace some more, walked, used my poles, stopped
and stretched. Normally loving downhills, I wished I was at the end of this
beautiful pine needle carpeted somewhat steep descent. Nothing for it but to
keep moving down, I planned out my Sherman Aid station stop – no crew here, so
I had to be self-sufficient. Put some “Sore No More” on my right ankle. Change my socks. Eat. Sunscreen. Keep moving. I knew I was
close when hikers started appearing headed up the trail, and soon I popped out of
the woods to a shelter, picnic tables, and the best bathroom in ultra running.
I stuck to my plan, ate a delicious chicken –bean-avocado-salsa-cheese burrito
and some cherry cobbler, and headed out. My right ankle was achy but not too
painful to run, my left leg/quad/ITB area was decidedly tired and put out by
all the extra work it was doing. Maybe, I thought, this isn’t the race I hoped
to have, but I could still finish and still enjoy the course. I would have to
be careful to keep these issues from getting worse, and I wasn’t looking
forward to telling Ken and my crew that I hadn’t exactly been able to deliver
on that first goal. But. I was still moving.
Before the climb up Handies, the 14er, the Burrows Park Aid station supplied me with some ice which went conveniently in my calf sleeve on my ankle. Much better. I was hitting Handies late afternoon – perhaps a perfect time to take a kite and a key to the top to replicate Franklin’s experiment, but otherwise not recommended. A storm rolled over three others and myself hiking just above treeline, but luckily without an electrical component. Other than my aches, which didn’t bother me uphill, I still felt good, was eating and drinking – at least that part of the plan was working. The final short rocky switchbacks to the peak became a methodical trudge, just focusing on another step while feeling the altitude. What a relief to step onto the broad top and be able to first stride across, then run!
Before the climb up Handies, the 14er, the Burrows Park Aid station supplied me with some ice which went conveniently in my calf sleeve on my ankle. Much better. I was hitting Handies late afternoon – perhaps a perfect time to take a kite and a key to the top to replicate Franklin’s experiment, but otherwise not recommended. A storm rolled over three others and myself hiking just above treeline, but luckily without an electrical component. Other than my aches, which didn’t bother me uphill, I still felt good, was eating and drinking – at least that part of the plan was working. The final short rocky switchbacks to the peak became a methodical trudge, just focusing on another step while feeling the altitude. What a relief to step onto the broad top and be able to first stride across, then run!
Atop a 14,000 ft high mountain, the world seems separated in two parts like oil and
water. There’s Sky. And there’s Mountains. These two elements make up the
entire world, and we are but a small part that witnesses the two.
While another runner sat on the peak and took in the view, I
knew I was far behind my planned pace. My crew was waiting for me, and I was
the bearer of not-so-good news. As I started down, I realized the news was
worse than I thought – running downhill was now more than uncomfortable. I
thought my ITB was about to go out on me. Thankfully though, after the steepest
section, I loosened up a bit and could jog down. I could feel dusk
descending, and frankly it was doing a better job of it than I. I made it down to
Grouse Gulch in the falling twilight. Not for the last time, my crew had
solutions for my problems. Ken, without knowing about my issues, had asked Jean
Herbert to come in case my ankle needed some help. I headed out of Grouse much
better than I had gone in. My goal now was distilled and straightforward: Keep
moving – I must get to Telluride (mile 72.8) still able to move as I am
now. Do that, and I will be able to
finish.
Vicki, my pacer and I
admired the string of pinpricks of light of runners climbing in the dark ahead
of us as we climbed up to Engineer's Pass. Normally I don't talk much, but we kept up a good conversation most of the time. At the top of the climb, we stopped to admire the stars peaking through
the clouds. A slight rain and slippery ground at the top of the descent made both of us skid uncontrolled on some parts. Many runners got it much worse - at the Engineers pass AS nearly everyone had skids of brown mud on their tights. Farther down, the exposed shelf trail high over the rushing bear creek didn't bother Vicki and we steadily made our way down running on shale that sounded like broken plates, We could hear runners above and below us tinkling in the dark. Finally, the lights of Ouray (mile 56.6) came into
view. I gave Vicki a list of things I wanted to remember to do: ditch my (dead)
GPS watch, get rid of trash, new gloves, etc. It seemed to take forever to get through town, those 5 blocks are KILLER, I'm telling you. At the aid station, I was so happy
to see everyone I forgot that things hurt that weren’t supposed to. They pushed
food in my hands (a second warm steak tortilla, how did they do that?), clothes over my head, water in my pack, and before I finished the steak tortilla they gave me, we’re ready to go. I was moving ok, still on track for goal 2- get to Telluride.
Richard is in charge of me as we head up Camp Bird Road over
Virginius pass to Telluride, an iconic Hardrock section. The 6 mile gravel road
approach is monotonous in the dark, but then the course turns to confront the mountain range just at daybreak. A
missing tooth-like gap in the rim was the goal of our ascent. Morning sun lit
the three snow-covered near-vertical pitches we have to climb. I looked over my
shoulder to see Richard staring back across Yankee Boy Basin at the mountain
range behind us in the morning light with the largest smile I’ve ever seen.
“Dig!Dig! Come on, Push!” Volunteers from Kroger’s Kanteen, an Aid Station
secured by bolts into the rock in that gap yell and encourage until we reach
the top. They wear rock climbing helmets and gear for good reason up here. A
short break for a hot pierogi and I’m ready to start the steep downhill to
Telluride. I took slow, steady cautious steps. Suddenly I was bent over, gasping in pain. It felt like someone was ripping out the
muscles/tendons in my thigh at the top of my knee. Richard stayed calm, helped
me stand. He asked, but I couldn't explain what had happened. I tried another step and the same ripping, searing pain. Locking my
knee, I took a few steps before the pain comes again. I pulled up my calf
sleeve to cover the area as a brace, I used my poles. I tried walking backwards
and sideways. Each option was met with such pain. I thought about crawling.
That’s it. I can’t even look at Richard. What can I do? I
can’t even walk.
We decided ibuprofen might help – we had to get down to
Telluride somehow. We told a passing runner we know to let Ken know I’m hurt
but will move down slowly, and am otherwise ok. If I locked my knee out, I
could make a few steps at a time. At a snow field crossing, I stopped and
filled the calf sleeve turned knee brace with snow. I was going to have to give
up. I knew it. I probably wouldn’t even make the cut off at Telluride. There was no
way I could make it, not running, not even walking.
Tyler, the veteran closer, shouted a greeting as he headed
towards us stopped at the trail side. At first he gave me grief for getting
passed by him, but then he saw my face. Tyler happens to be a doctor. After
palpating the area, he told me exactly what I needed to hear. “You have not
caused any permanent damage. Keep icing, 20 min on, 20 off. Get down to
Telluride and give it a rest.”
“You can do this. You’re tough. You have time. Don’t run
another step. You can walk it in from here.”
“Don’t Quit. You can do this.”
He held my gaze fiercely for a long moment. I took his word. The pain seized my quad a few more times on those first dozen steps. Slowly,
the ice/ibuprofen combo dulled the pain. We walked down, slowly at first, then
a little faster on the flat sections. Richard filled a bag with snow to take
with us for refills. Although he’d been on the move since 2 am, Richard
calculated in his head how much time I needed if I walked the last 28 miles at 2
miles an hour 50% of the way, 1 mile an hour 15% of the way, and 1.5 miles an
hour 35% of the way. He said I could do it. I was walking. I believed him. At first I felt like I had no choice but to believe him, but as we got closer to Telluride, that choice felt like the only thing I ever wanted.
Into Telluride, I blurted, “I have to walk the rest of the
way in.” My crew already knew, of course – Tyler and all the other runners that
passed us had been through and told them. Not for the last time, they had what
I needed. Ken found someone to tape my knee. My gear, which took up 2/3 of the
Aid Station space, was set up.
I changed, grabbed more ibuprofen for the way, and headed out with Albert, Richard's Magic Ice Bag and some grilled cheese in my hands to eat. I could walk, so dang it I was going to hike up as fast as I could since descending would not be fun. I told Albert that I wanted to get to Chapman AS, 9.3 miles away in 5 hours. I had to finish.
There were 3 chairs set up in front of this and at least 2 more bags. |
See the tape, quad sleeve, and calf sleeve? I am stylin'. Even got comments from the hikers on the # of patterns I was wearing. |
I changed, grabbed more ibuprofen for the way, and headed out with Albert, Richard's Magic Ice Bag and some grilled cheese in my hands to eat. I could walk, so dang it I was going to hike up as fast as I could since descending would not be fun. I told Albert that I wanted to get to Chapman AS, 9.3 miles away in 5 hours. I had to finish.
The section out of Telluride is unmatched in beauty.
Following alongside a river broken by so many waterfalls, the trail winds
through wildflowers and trees, across bridges, switchbacking up through
pussy-willows and moss until you reach the wide hidden basin that contains the
river’s headwaters. I learned later that the winner Killian Jornet got lost here among the
snow fields.
He didn’t have Albert. Albert would dash ahead to find the next cairn, go up over hills for better views, giving me encouragement and direction to the pass. On the other side, we slid down a snowfield (hee hee!) to a traverse and made it down the rock slide descent. I was moving unbearably slowly. I’d pictured being able to run down this tumbled rock path tired but happy. I’d counted on that. But I could only walk. And hope. I felt like I didn’t even have time to look at my watch. As we got within sight of the Aid Station, I asked what time it was. We had made it in 4:57. I could do this. It was do-able.
Even getting lost didn't stop him from setting a course record. |
He didn’t have Albert. Albert would dash ahead to find the next cairn, go up over hills for better views, giving me encouragement and direction to the pass. On the other side, we slid down a snowfield (hee hee!) to a traverse and made it down the rock slide descent. I was moving unbearably slowly. I’d pictured being able to run down this tumbled rock path tired but happy. I’d counted on that. But I could only walk. And hope. I felt like I didn’t even have time to look at my watch. As we got within sight of the Aid Station, I asked what time it was. We had made it in 4:57. I could do this. It was do-able.
Another quick stop – I didn’t want to spend more time
sitting in aid stations than I had to – my crew telling me to do things (eat
this, drink all of this, take this salt tab) and I followed directions until
they let Barry and I out on the course. Time to climb. Up through a pine forest
until openings in the trees gave us a view of the golden rocks of Oscar’s pass.
It looked incredibly imposing and far away, but I had just gone down that with
Albert. Soon we crossed the tumbled
rocks and grassy mounds to the base of the loose scree leading straight up 100
yards to the top of Grant Swamp Pass. I thought surely it would be snowy and
easier to climb, but the snow ended abruptly near the base. Rather than
struggle with the straight up approach, we opted for the switchbacks to the
right side. Both paths dealt with loose gravelly rocks sliding out from
underfoot, with larger rocks threatening to slide down behind you or on you. With Barry leading the way, we made it to the
top and the late afternoon view of little island lake. Though we maintained the
ice routine with Richard’s Magic Snow Bag, the descent was still painfully slow. A brief spot of rain, and then a full rainbow just below little island lake, everything green and glowing in the late afternoon light. As it leveled some I walked as fast as I could, envisioning Olympic race
walkers and promising myself I wouldn’t ever chuckle at the strange gait again.
I knew this section well, and knew that it had possibly the last good chance
for fast walking – Kamm’s traverse, a ~1.5 mile slight consistent downhill on
easy trail. I focused on faster and faster and faster walking, wishing every
moment I could run. Finally, the last full aid station came into view.
Josh was lined up to pace me, but it was Ken dressed in running clothes at the Aid Station! I didn't know it, but it was exactly what I wanted.
The last climb was in front of me. It was now the second
evening of my race, but it all melded together for me like taffy. It could have
been one day, or it could have been four; it didn’t matter, I just needed to
keep moving forward. I felt energetic and ready to take on this last climb,
make it mine, and then-
The finish.
Ken and I chatted a little, memories of the first time I’d
paced him on this section. Him losing a shoe briefly to the mud, the rain and
cold. We passed a few people – I had passed these same runners on the last
uphill section, and they’d caught me on the downhill. One of these runners was the one I saw
sit down on the top of Handies more than 24 hours ago. Motoring up, I felt
fantastic, fast, smooth. My headlight was crazy bright. Every so often I’d see
something fantastical out of the corner of my eye at the edge of the light – an
ewok under a tree, a line of clowns sitting at the edge of the path, a pinwheel
– if I looked directly, though, the tree or stump would resolve itself in the
full light.
Near the top, it started to get cold and windy. In the open above treeline heading cross country, mists or clouds blew through us. Finding the markers, reflective though they were, became difficult. Again, Ken came to the rescue, and knew what to do. We paused, getting our gear on and waiting for a group of 4 runners and pacers to help with the search. We’d find a marker, then fan out to find the next and shouting out to the group, “This way, I got one!” Over and over again, until we were at the top of the ridgeline, the wind was really blowing now, streamers of fog reflecting our lights back at us. We fanned out, but there was no marker to find. We regrouped at the last marker. I sat and started to put on tights, the cold damp setting in, fingers numb, teeth chattering, feet wet and getting colder. I wondered how I was going to get warm. Even if, even when, we found the next marker, we were starting to head downhill. I couldn’t use speed to warm up. Everyone else would run down. I had no more layers to put on. A shout came, but my tights comically were only partway on. I struggled, too many things to take care of. Finally moving, but cold and so slowly. One of the other pacers turned back to make sure we were finding the markers again. Ken seemed far far ahead. Part of me knew he had to keep drawing me forward, down where the wind would still and an aid station awaited. Finally, the wind stilled. Finally, the cloud cleared. Finally, there was a trail beneath our feet. And finally, we got to the last, the very last aid station, Putnam Basin. I ate a little without much enthusiasm, drank some Mountain Dew. We headed out again, now with warm hands and bellies. The last 5.8 miles would take hours, I knew. Downhill across rocks and roots I began to take a few more chances and increased my walking speed. I wanted to finish, already. Where it was level, I pushed until I was double poling because my legs were moving too fast. Two miles an hour seemed very fast in the dark after 40+ hours of moving.
Is that shouting, maybe cheering? A party? This noise could be heard sometimes. Then, it became constant whooping and rhythmic banging. Were people at the Mineral Creek river crossing? Not people, just one person, one guy, cheering us on with a light trained on the rope to help us cross the swift water.
Like a tour guide, he led us, “this way, this way, great
job” to the road. I was only two miles from the finish now. I ran this short
path three times in the weeks leading up to the race. All that prep, but I
could never have imagined the feeling of being here now. There was no dogged
running the last uphill, or tired wooden jogging of the final streets in town.
There was no time goal to strive for.
There was walking.
Near the top, it started to get cold and windy. In the open above treeline heading cross country, mists or clouds blew through us. Finding the markers, reflective though they were, became difficult. Again, Ken came to the rescue, and knew what to do. We paused, getting our gear on and waiting for a group of 4 runners and pacers to help with the search. We’d find a marker, then fan out to find the next and shouting out to the group, “This way, I got one!” Over and over again, until we were at the top of the ridgeline, the wind was really blowing now, streamers of fog reflecting our lights back at us. We fanned out, but there was no marker to find. We regrouped at the last marker. I sat and started to put on tights, the cold damp setting in, fingers numb, teeth chattering, feet wet and getting colder. I wondered how I was going to get warm. Even if, even when, we found the next marker, we were starting to head downhill. I couldn’t use speed to warm up. Everyone else would run down. I had no more layers to put on. A shout came, but my tights comically were only partway on. I struggled, too many things to take care of. Finally moving, but cold and so slowly. One of the other pacers turned back to make sure we were finding the markers again. Ken seemed far far ahead. Part of me knew he had to keep drawing me forward, down where the wind would still and an aid station awaited. Finally, the wind stilled. Finally, the cloud cleared. Finally, there was a trail beneath our feet. And finally, we got to the last, the very last aid station, Putnam Basin. I ate a little without much enthusiasm, drank some Mountain Dew. We headed out again, now with warm hands and bellies. The last 5.8 miles would take hours, I knew. Downhill across rocks and roots I began to take a few more chances and increased my walking speed. I wanted to finish, already. Where it was level, I pushed until I was double poling because my legs were moving too fast. Two miles an hour seemed very fast in the dark after 40+ hours of moving.
Is that shouting, maybe cheering? A party? This noise could be heard sometimes. Then, it became constant whooping and rhythmic banging. Were people at the Mineral Creek river crossing? Not people, just one person, one guy, cheering us on with a light trained on the rope to help us cross the swift water.
Crossing Mineral Creek in a spotlight |
There was no time goal to strive for.
There was walking.
I would never have believed the joy and satisfaction. Not of working hard, or running hard, but of resolving hard. I
kissed the rock.
There were so many things I wanted from this race. In the
end, I could hold on to none of those things; I let them go without prejudice.
It was everything just to finish.
All my thanks to my crew and pacers: Ken, Josh, Vicki, Albert, Richard, and Barry.